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MorphCostumes has scoured the world for alternatives to Chinese production, including Vietnam, Bangladesh, and Cambodia. None offer the deep expertise in everything from cloth-sourcing to zip-making that is available in China, often in the necessarily small batches needed for fast-moving consumer goods.
He tells BBC Newsbeat that he expected to receive a cease and desist letter from the retail giant after describing some of the clothes as "boring" and "tacky PE kit".